Winemaker Visit: Pierre-Andre Jaunin
St-Saphorin in Lavaux, Chasselas, Low-Alcohol Innovation & Tradition
The Jaunin family has been growing chasselas grapes and making wine in the Chexbres village area since 1458. I had the pleasure of visiting Pierre-Andre Jaunin, his wine cellar and vineyard just as the vines were beginning to bud this week. His vineyard might just have the best view of Lake Geneva and the Swiss alps of the entire region.
He started as a winemaker’s apprentice, subsequently spending over 2 decades as a cavist-oenologist working for others in the Lavaux region. Jaunin rented vineyards in the region on the side, and in 2001 decided to strike out on his own as an independent winemaker.
Working to improve the quality of the soil, and ensure the vines have an optimal growing environment is essential for him. In 2001, he ended all herbicide treatments in his vineyards, and in 2003 became only the second certified organic winemaker in Lavaux.
I find notable that other winemakers speak so highly of Jaunin’s work, and buy his wine to consume at home with their own families.
Philosophy
Jaunin is passionate about the chasselas varietal, as Lavaux its its native region. Preserving the tradition of chasselas is critical to him, as part of the living heritage of the Lavaux.
Chasselas is notable for its ability to express the terroir, and the resulting wine can be dramatically different from parcel to parcel. Jaunin’s wine is a vivid demonstration of this. He likes light bodied, dry white wines, secondary (malo-lactic) fermentation and aging his wines on their natural lees. His wine all have well-balanced moderate acidity.
He presses his wines of a vertical hydraulic basket press system that is over 75 years old, which he meticulously maintains. The vertical hydraulic press takes 5-6 hours to complete a pressing cycle, in contrast to most modern pneumatic membrane presses, which take 2.5 hours. The yield may be slightly lower, but overall results in less damage to the skin and seeds of the grape. This antique press design is now being built again, and is favored by many high-end champagne producers.
The Wines
La Cochere
Cultivated in goblet, and raised on its lees, this classic chasselas is a dry wine, light bodied, with a fruity nose with apple and linden blossom notes, well balanced, with a long and moderate mineral finish. Very low sulfur. Winner of a Silver medal at the Swiss Bio Vino 2023 awards.
Le Trinquet
This unique low-alcohol chasselas is made by Jaunin by selecting grapes from particular individual vines, which he knows have a naturally lower sugar level than others on the same parcel. The result is an artisanal chasselas with 30% less alcohol naturally than most wines - only 10% alcohol by volume. For wine lovers looking to moderate their alcohol consumption - Le Trinquet is an incredible find. Floral notes of linden flowers, salt, well balanced with a light mineral finish of tremendous persistance. Winner of a Silver medal at the Swiss Bio Vino 2023 awards.
La Galiote
Stemming from a unique parcel of vertical wine terraces by the lake’s edge, this chasselas benefits from a unique microclimate, which gives this wine both volume and richness, along with its characteristic linden floral notes and long mineral finish. The most gastronomic of his three chasselas.
Pairing with meals
Chasselas is a classic choice for aperitifs and with cheese dishes like fondue or raclette. The moderate acidity deftly slices through the fat content of the cheese, leaving your palate refreshed. It can also pair well with light fish, poultry and vegetable dishes.
Visit by Appointment
Reserve a visit or purchase wine by calling 079 319 13 34 (in French) or email: pierre-andre.jaunin (at) bluewin.ch.
Public Transit: The CFF will take you to Chexbres station, from there it’s a 5-10 minute walk to his wine cellar.
On Foot: The national tourism site My Switzerland proposes this itinerary to walk from St-Saphorin to Lutry through Lavaux. Jaunin’s vineyard is on the route.
Address: Pierre-André Jaunin, Winemaker, Chemin de Chenilly 2, 1071 Chexbres
